Details
Formée d'un coquillage volute poli, la bouche appliquée d'une plaque en or gravée d'une alternance de bandes unies et de bande filetées rehaussées d'un motif imitant le corail, le col uni, le bouchon avec prise ovale balustre, apparemment sans poinçons
L.: 7 cm. (234 in.)
Poids brut: 22 gr. (14 dwt.)
Provenance
Vente Sotheby's, Londres, 9 novembre 1999, lot 98.
FURTHER DETAILS
A GOLD-MOUNTED SHELL SCENT BOTTLE
PROBABLY GERMANY OR HOLLAND, EARLY 18TH CENTURY
Volute shell, the mouth applied with a gold plaque engraved to emulate the patterns of the shell, with plain collar and baluster curved stopper, apparently unmarked

Exotic shells imported from China have captivated the imagination of European goldsmiths since the 16th century, and were mounted in cups, gourds or bottles. For this scent bottle, the goldsmith was able to highlight the shape and natural pattern of the shell by engraving the gold parts with the same decoration.
Perfume bottles due to their small size are not always hallmarked as is the case here, but there are examples bearing French, Flemish or German hallmarks. Certainly the tradition of these mounted or transformed shells continued for a long time in Holland where the VOC held the monopoly on the importat of these shells.
For a snuffbox in the style of this bottle, unmarked but possibly Holland, circa 1750, see The James A. de Rothschild Collection at Waddesdon Manor, Gold Boxes and Miniatures in the Eighteenth Century, London, 1975, p. 105, No 49 and for an example in gold chased in imitation of a shell, without hallmark but perhaps German or Dutch, circa 1740-1750, see p. 32, No. 6.
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Lot Essay

Les coquillages aux formes exotiques importés de Chine ont captivé l'imagination des orfèvres européens depuis le XVIe siècle, et ont été montés en coupes, gourdes ou en flacons. Pour ce flacon, l’orfèvre a su mettre en valeur la forme et le motif naturel du coquillage en gravant les parties en or du même décor.
Les flacons à parfum, en raison de leur petite taille, ne sont pas toujours poinçonnés comme c’est le cas ici, mais il existe des exemples portant des poinçons français, flamands ou allemands. La tradition de ces coquillages montés ou transformés a perduré longtemps en Hollande où le VOC (Compagnie néerlandaise des Indes) détenait le monopole de leur importation.
Pour une tabatière dans le style de ce flacon, sans poinçon mais peut-être Hollande, vers 1750, voir The James A. de Rothschild Collection at Waddesdon Manor, Gold Boxes and Miniatures in the Eighteenth Century, London, 1975, p. 105, No 49 et pour un exemple en or ciselé à l’imitation d’un coquillage, sans poinçon mais peut-être allemand ou hollandais, vers 1740-1750, voir p. 32, No. 6.

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