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Lot Essay
This snuff-box is recorded in the inventory of Mayer Carl Freiherr von Rothschild's collection at Untermainkai no. 15 in Frankfurt as no. 146 in the Gelber Saal - Kasten 2 [the yellow room, case no. 2] and described as 'Desgl. (Eine Gold. Email. Dose) Fond oliv. Ränder mit Relief-Email-Perlen, grün durchsetzt. Ovales Reliefportrait: Dame in blauen Kleide. Länge 8 cm. Breite 6 cm.' [Likewise (A gold. Enamel. Box) olive ground. Rims with interspersed relief enamel beads, green. Oval relief portrait: Lady in blue dress. Length 8 cm. Width 6 cm.].
The marks struck in this box were attributed by Lorenz Seelig (2015) to Esais Fernau and are recorded on a snuff-box in the Louvre Museum (OA 6841) with similar enamelled decoration. Esaias Fernau (circa 1734-1795) was one of the leading jewellers in Hanau and a founding member of the Zeichenakademie (Drawing academie) in 1764 together with the Souchay brothers, the Toussaint brothers, Esaias Obicker, Daniel Marchand, the Colin brothers, and G. Bocquet. This academy aimed to teach students to become engine-turners, enamellers, chasers and engravers. From 1762 to 1780 he was in partnership with another native of Hanau, the goldsmith and enameller Daniel Marchand (1733-1794), before setting up another company with enamel painter and jeweller Friedrich Wagenführer (1743-1818) later joined by his brother Johann Friedrich Fernau (active 1773-1789). The company traded as "E. Fernau et Comp.", "Gebrüder Fernau et Comp." or just "Gebrüder Fernau" (Brothers Fernau).
The miniature on this box is after one now in the Louvre Museum (INV 35715), attributed to the Swiss painter Jean Petitot (1607-1691). This miniature has been described as possibly being the portrait of Anne Lenclos known as Ninon de Lenclos (1620-1705), a French author and courtesan. However the portrait is more likely to be that of Margaret Lemon after Sir Anthony Van Dyck (1599-1641). Van Dyck painted his mistress in 1638 with the same flower headpiece and her hand delicately holding the fabric of her dress. Margaret Lemon was the most painted commoner of the 17th century and her portraitremained popular throughout the 18th century and was often copied and used on snuff-boxes.
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Condition report
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Marks very clear. Labels Collection de Monsieur Henri de Rothschild, No. 44. Some minute loss to the sky blue enamel near the hinge. In good condition. Very striking colour.
Print Report
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