VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RETRO GOLD, RUBY, SAPPHIRE, COLOURED SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'PASSE-PARTOUT' SUITEImportant information about this lot
Price Realised GBP 325,000
Estimate
GBP 60,000 - GBP 90,000
Estimates do not reflect the final hammer price and do not include buyer's premium, any applicable taxes or artist's resale right. Please see the Conditions of Sale for full details.
Closed: 23 Jun 2021
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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RETRO GOLD, RUBY, SAPPHIRE, COLOURED SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'PASSE-PARTOUT' SUITE
It is rare to encounter such a comprehensive suite of ‘Passe-Partout’ jewellery and even more unusual that it has been in the same family since it was acquired around the time of its conception.
Patented in France on 8 August 1938 and in New York on 20 April 1939, the Passe-Partout design was one of the first transformative jewels created by Van Cleef & Arpels. It immediately appealed to the modern woman as it could be adapted to be worn in a number of ways to suit different clothes and situations. Usually formed from detachable blue and yellow flowerhead clusters with a ruby or coloured sapphire centre, a hidden technical innovation in the form of a system of rails enables a flexible gold snake chain to slide in and out allowing the piece to transform into necklaces of different lengths, a bracelet and even a belt. This particular suite includes a ring, a pair of hair combs a bracelet watch and ear clips. This avant-garde design soon became a favourite of many stylish and prominent women including actress Paulette Goddard, wife of Charlie Chaplin, heiress Doris Duke and Hélène Arpels.
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You have agreed to be bound by the Conditions of Sale and if your bid is successful, you are legally obliged to pay for the lot you have won. The purchase price for a successful bid will be the sum of your final bid plus a buyer’s premium, any applicable taxes and any artist resale royalty, exclusive of shipping-related expenses.
Condition report
A Christie's specialist may contact you to discuss this lot or to notify you if the condition changes prior to the sale.
The condition of lots can vary widely and the nature of the lots sold means that they are unlikely to be in a perfect condition. Lots are sold in the condition they are in at the time of sale.
Gold serpent link chain: Clasp with rubbed French maker's mark, and French assay marks (eagle heads). Linking in overall good condition, light scratch and scuffs marks visible. Extendable link 7.1 cm.
Bracelet watch with concealed dial: Bracelet unsigned, with French assay marks. Watch dial signed Van Cleef & Arpels. Bracelet linking with some light scratching. Underside of watch case with removable blue plastic film, obscured number. Movement running, though unexamined and cannot be guaranteed for time keeping. Please see Important Notice under Conditions of Sale regarding watches.
Pair of clip brooches: Convertable for use with serpent chain as bracelet or necklace. Each clip slides on to a detachable fitting. Fitting is no. 51285 with French assay mark. One or two sapphires with eye visible typical inclusions, the remainder with few typical incluions mainly isible under 10x magnification.
Further clip brooch: Convertable for use as a belt. Unsigned and unmarked. The clip fitting no. 51285 with French assay mark. Few typical eye visible inclusions.
Ring: Signed VCA NY, the hoop is fitted with a sizing band that obscures some of the inner band from sight. Small chip visible to one of the blue sapphires (on the flowerhead with the diamond stamen). Sapphires with few typical inclusions mainly only visible under 10x magnification.
Pair of earrings: Clip fittings, good tension. One clip (with the yellow sapphire petals) signed Van Cleef & Arpels NY and no. 531. The other clip (with the blue sapphire petals) with rubbed Van Cleef & Arpels signature. Sapphires with few typical inclusions mainly only visible under 10x magnification. Light wear to gold. Overall good condition.
Tortoiseshell mounted hair combs: Each signed Van Cleef & Arpels with French maker's mark and assay mark to reverse of gold. Slight tarnish to gold. Tops with clip openings with good tension. Small bruise and nicks to tortoiseshell.
Please see Important Notice under Conditions of Sale regarding coloured stones.
Cost calculator
Lot 484Sale 20048
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RETRO GOLD, RUBY, SAPPHIRE, COLOURED SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'PASSE-PARTOUT' SUITEEstimate: GBP 60,000 - 90,000
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