Details
Holbeinesque design, black, white and blue enamel, cushion-shaped rubies, old-cut diamonds, bouton-shaped pearl, gold, circa 1870, maker's mark for Phillips Brothers, fitted R & S Garrard case

Size/Dimensions: inner circumference 17.5 cm
Gross Weight: 58.9 grams

Please note that the pearls have not been tested for natural origin
Literature
Cf. David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, Suffolk, ACC Art Books, p. 189, pl. 258 for an illustration of a bracelet of near identical design by Carlo Giuliano dated c. 1870
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Lot Essay

Robert Phillips was born on May 20, 1810. He along with his brother, William Benjamin, founded Phillips Brothers in London. Initially located at 31 Cockspur from 1846 to 1855, it was moved down the street to number 23. Sometime around 1860, he sponsored Carlo Giuliano as a member of his firm. The present lot bears very strong similarities to two Giuliano examples, a near identical bracelet referenced in the literature as well as lot 98, a pendant. We have seen other similar examples bearing both the marks of Carlo Giuliano and Phillips Brothers, illustrating the close relationship that the two had.

In 1869 Phillip's son, Alfred joined the firm and the name became Phillips brothers & Son. Phillips was one of the first English Jewellers to make archaeological jewellery in the Italian style. He exhibited at the 1862 International Exposition in London and at the 1867 Exposition Universelle in Paris where he was the only English Jeweller to be awarded a Gold Medal. In 1870, Phillips was given a decoration by the King of Italy for his service to the coral trade. When Robert Phillips died in 1881, an associate, William Sturgess ran the firm until Alfred assumed control in 1884. Phillips Brothers & Son closed their doors in 1902.

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