Founded by Fortunato Pio Castellani (1794 - 1865) in 1814, the Castellani jewelry workshop was the preeminent authority on archeological jewelry in the 19th century. Inspired by civilizations spanning antiquity, Castellani faithfully recreated jewels in Etruscan, Assyrian, Scythian, Byzantine, Roman and Greek styles in what is collectively known as archeological-style jewelry. Supported by Fortunato Pio’s sons, Alessandro (1823 - 1883) and Augusto (1829 - 1914), the Castellani family’s mastery over the styles and techniques of ancient jewelry brought to the modern collector an understanding and appreciation of the history of jewelry.

Public fascination with archeological findings and excavations grew in the mid-1800s, particularly as the Grand Tour became more accessible by railroad, bringing tourists through the Italian peninsula. Castellani’s fame grew as well, with Alessandro establishing outposts for the Roman-based firm in Florence, Naples, Paris and London. Despite Castellani drawing inspiration from archeological sites, none of the firm’s jewels were exact replicas. Instead, they became a vessel through which the modern collector could interact with and admire ancient civilizations. Owning a Castellani jewel became as coveted as owning a jewel from antiquity.

Fortunato Pio and Alessandro were regularly called to excavation sites to study the jewelry and ornate gold artifacts recovered by the archeologists. As a result, the Castellani family earned a legacy as some of the first scholars to attempt to divide the history of jewelry design into eras with their analytical survey of the evolution of goldsmith techniques. Of particular impact was the Etruscan Regolini-Galassi tomb, opened in 1836. This firsthand interaction with the ancient jewels discovered in the tomb would become the thread that guided the firm to the particular character of Etruscan jewelry. Castellani discovered that the ancient jewelers created their designs by adding detail to the metal rather than carving or cutting away to create an effect. Through dedicated study, the Castellani firm was able to recreate these designs through delicate filigree wirework and granulation, an ancient technique in which tiny granules of gold are attached to a metal base in an intricate design.

Complimenting the firm’s skilled goldsmithing, Castellani became known for incorporating both ancient and modern intaglios, cameos, micro-mosaics and scarab carvings into their jewels. Inspired by Marquis Campana’s exquisite collection of antiquities, Castellani began making bracelets and necklaces often using authentic Etruscan scarab carvings in modern mountings. Lot 63, an Antique Castellani Carnelian and Gold Bracelet is such an example of a 19th century Castellani recreation of a scarab jewel in the ancient style.