Round rubies, wings set with blue iridescent butterfly wings under domed rock crystal, old and rose-cut diamonds, 14k yellow gold (Austrian marks) and 18k yellow gold (customs mark), maker’s mark (Ernst Paltscho), J.C Burnier & Zoon Jeweliers Den Hag fitted case, circa 1910

Size/Dimensions: 9.6 x 6.6 cm
Gross weight: 32.7 grams

Please note that the brooch is not signed Ernst Paltscho.

Ernst Paltscho (1858-1929), a Viennese jeweler active in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, distinguished himself through his innovative approach and remarkable creations, particularly within the Art Nouveau style. He is best known for his mastery of the plique-à-jour technique, a translucent enamel reminiscent of stained glass, and for his bold use of real butterfly wings in his jewelry.

Paltscho incorporated delicate butterfly wings under layers of glass or in precious metal settings. These wings, chosen for their vivid colors and natural patterns, brought a unique iridescence and luminosity to his pieces. By combining these organic elements with techniques like plique-à-jour and gold or silver settings, Paltscho managed to capture the fleeting beauty of nature and immortalize it in his creations.

The use of real butterfly wings reflected the naturalistic aesthetic of Art Nouveau, which sought to blend art with nature. Paltscho’s pieces, both poetic and experimental, were highly prized by elite clientele and are still admired today for their refinement and originality.