Cushion-shaped and round sapphires, cushion-shaped coloured sapphires, round and calibré-cut rubies, French assay marks for 18K yellow gold (750‰), signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, 1940s

Sapphires: for an approximate total weight of 16.50-18.50 carats
Coloured sapphires: for an approximate total weight of 14.50-16.50 carats
Rubies: for an approximate total weight of 1.50-2.50 carats

Size/Dimensions: 9.2 x 6.9 cm
Gross weight: 56.37 grams

The 'Passe-Partout' collection by Van Cleef & Arpels emerged in the late 1930s and marked a major milestone in the history of jewelry. On February 1938, the Maison filed in Paris a patent for the 'Multiple Transformations Jewel', followed by the registration of the name 'Passe-Partout' on March 1939.

Presented as a 'jewel of tomorrow' at the 1939 New York World’s Fair under the slogan “Dawn of a New Day,” this creation embodied the spirit of innovation and freedom of its time. Featuring an ingenious system of flexible tubogas chain and detachable floral clips, the jewel could be transformed into a necklace, bracelet, belt, or brooch.

Combining modernity, mobility, and elegance, the Passe-Partout reflected the evolving lifestyles of women in the late 1930s. A true symbol of versatility and refinement, it remains today one of Van Cleef & Arpels’ most iconic creations.

Cf. F.Farges, Gems, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, Flammarion, 1940, p. 281 for a similar collection
Cf. E. Possémé, Van Cleef & Arpels, L’Art de la Haute Joaillerie, Paris, Editions Les Arts Décoratifs, 2012, p.123-125 for a similiar collection
Cf. M. Petit, Van Cleef & Arpels, Reflets d'éternité, Paris, Editions du Cercle d'Art, 2005, plate 204-206 for a similar collection