Introduced in 1934, Van Cleef & Arpels’ 'Flamme' marked a shift from the geometric lines of the 1930s toward a more figurative and graceful style that would come to define the 1940s. Set with brilliant and baguette diamonds on platinum, the ‘Flame’ clip could be pinned according to personal whim: on a jacket lapel, in the hair, or atop a fashionable hat. Its versatility and charm quickly made it a favorite among clients, and the model would continue to inspire later designs. Economic conditions of the time encouraged the creation of jewelry that was both elegant and adaptable, hallmarks of Van Cleef & Arpels’ style. Often designed to be worn as a pair, the brooches could be combined or worn separately.

One of the most notable demonstrations of the brooches’ transformable quality can be seen in Jacqueline Kennedy’s wardrobe. She repeatedly wore her ‘Flamme’ brooches, whether adorning multi-strand pearl necklaces, pinned to jackets or dresses, or, most famously, accenting her hairstyle during a state dinner hosted by President and Madame de Gaulle at Versailles on June 1, 1961.

The flame motif’s appeal endured throughout the 20th century, inspiring multiple variations, some released under the model name 'Haricot'. A triumph of modern design principles, the enduring charm of these brooches lies in their sleek lines, monochromatic palette, and the striking contrast between round and baguette diamonds, ensuring their continued relevance in style and fashion.