Details
METAL: 18k (750) yellow gold (French assay mark)
MATRIX TURQUOISES: oval cabochon and rectangular sugarloaf matrix turquoise measuring approximately 42.0 x 31.0 x 7.0 mm
DATE: 1957
MARKS: signed Jean Fouquet, maker’s mark (Pierre Fertey, for Jean Fouquet)
CASE: official Jean Fouquet fitted case

SIZE/DIMENSIONS: lenght 37.3 cm, fixed part 14.5 cm
GROSS WEIGHT: 69.0 grams
Provenance
Jean Fouquet.
Exhibited
Exposition Universelle, Bruxelles, from April, 17 to October,19 1958
Les Sources du XXème siècle, Musée National d'Art Moderne, Paris, 1960
Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris, 1983.
Special notice
Artist's Resale Right ("droit de Suite"). If the Artist's Resale Right Regulations 2006 apply to this lot, the buyer also agrees to pay us an amount equal to the resale royalty provided for in those Regulations, and we undertake to the buyer to pay such amount to the artist's collection agent.
Please note this lot is the property of a consumer. See H1 of the Conditions of Sale.
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Lot Essay

From Alphonse to Jean Fouquet, during almost a century, the Fouquet family has contributed to the evolution of the great French jewellery tradition. Alphonse, Georges and Jean were jewellers of their time, ahead of their time.

Alphonse Fouquet appreciated the "Renaissance" style using fantastic animals such as chimeras. A brooch belonging to the family's personal collection is offered for sale in Jean Fouquet's personal collection. It was in 1860, after having been a designer, Fouquet established himself on his own account, at 176 rue du Temple in Paris. Fouquet seek his inspiration is the Renaissance period, he will use representations of fantastic animals and will "cover" the possibilities offered by brooches, bracelets, various pins, hair etc, but also necklaces, chains, diadems and various ornaments of head and front of bodice. From 1862, he innovated with daring compositions, using sapphires, rubies, pearls, onyx, garnets, amethysts, topaz and turquoise lapis. In 1878, Alphonse Fouquet is at the peak of his art, to participate in the Universal Exhibition.

Georges Fouquet, Alphonse Fouquet's son, became his father's partner in 1894. The latter was no longer healthy enough to work, so Georges worked with the hallmark of his father's company and continued to hallmark with Alphonse's hallmark until 1897, on 3 November, when he obtained the registration of his hallmark. Georges uses fine stones, either in transparent materials: aquamarine, amethyst, topaz, or in opaque materials: lapis, onyx, jade, malachite, mother-of-pearl or frosted crystal. It is through the interplay of volumes as well as through the gaiety of colours that he achieves a decorative effect.

Jean Fouquet was born in 1899. He was 20 years old in 1909 when he studied literature and then wanted to become a lawyer. He was able to design, during the same year, a modernist ball bearing bracelet, inspired by the machinismo of industrialisation, and the most delicate jewellery in rock crystal encrusted with fine precious stones, such as this brooch which we will present in our sale.

Revolutionarily, it is contemporary life that drives jewellers, not the past. They are stimulated by progress. They glorify mechanics; bolts, screws and crankshafts become jewels. They exalt speed. The city and its vitality suggest a new aesthetic.


Literature:

Cf. M. De Gary, Les Fouquets, Bijoutiers & Joailliers à Paris 1860-1960, Paris, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Flammarion, 1983, p.145.

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