METAL: 18k (750) yellow gold and platinum (850) (French assay marks)
RUBIES: circular rubies with approximate total weight of 16.50-20.50 carats
DIAMONDS: circular diamonds with approximate total weight of 5.50-6.50 carats
DATE: 1964
MARKS: signed Van Cleef & Arpels, maker's marks (Péry & Fils, Van Cleef & Arpels) on each element, each element is numbered

SIZE/DIMENSIONS: 18.2 to 22.5 cm with pompon x 2.5 cm (worn as a bracelet), approx. 45.0 cm x 1.5 (worn as necklace), 4.5 x 1.6 cm (tassel)
GROSS WEIGHT: 143.6 grams

A true masterpiece of ingenuity and one of the most innovative pieces of jewellery ever created, the Van Cleef & Arpels "Zip" necklace is an iconic design with a rich and intriguing history.

The legend begins in the 1930s, when the Duchess of Windsor, then known as one of the most elegant and fashionable women in the world and a loyal client of the House, asked Renée Puissant, daughter of Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef and the House's Creative Director between 1926 and 1942, to create a piece of jewellery inspired by the zipper to be worn with her evening dresses. This request suggested a long and complex design process requiring patience and tenacity from the atelier.

Although the patent for the design was filed in 1938, it was not until 1951 that Van Cleef & Arpels presented its first "Zip" necklace. Capturing the spirit and style of the 1950s, the "Zip" necklace is not only a beautiful and versatile piece of jewellery, but also a stunning technical achievement. The top part of the necklace can be detached and the remaining section can be reassembled to form a bracelet, leaving the gold tassel hanging off one side. This versatility brings a sense of play to the design of Haute Joaillerie.
Very few of these iconic jewels were made in the 1950s, a fact that explains why the few examples offered at auction are highly sought after by collectors.

Still in high demand more than seventy years after its creation, the ability of the "Zip" necklace to stand the test of time is testament to its innovative and iconic design.

M. Petit, Van Cleef & Arpels, Reflets d'éternité, Paris, Editions du Cercle d'Art, 2005, plate 208 and 209 for a similar necklace.
E. Possémée, Van Cleef & Arpels, L’Art de la Haute Joaillerie, Paris, Editions Les Arts Décoratifs, 2012, p.159 for a similiar necklace.
S. Raulet, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, Editions du Regard, 1986, p.235 for a similiar necklace.
X. Barral, Van Cleef & Arpels, Timeless Beauty, Editions Xavier Barral, 2012, p.125 for a similar necklace.

Please note this lot is the property of a consumer. See H1 of the Conditions of Sale.

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The condition of lots can vary widely and the nature of the lots sold means that they are unlikely to be in a perfect condition. Lots are sold in the condition they are in at the time of sale.

- Overall condition: good. Shows normal signs of wear, several abrasions throughout the platinum and gold, some traces of oxidation on the finishing element of the necklace (set with rubies), some slight restorations on two of the filaments of the pompon. Each element is fitted with concealed clasp, the necklace extension is fitted with concealed and secure clasps with security clatchs.
- Additional marks:
On the main body of the jewel: 750, Van Cleef & Arpels, maker's mark (Van Cleef & Arpels), S.G.D.G (mark meaning ‘Sans Garantie Du Gouvernement’ (No Government Guarantee) on articles made in France).
On the necklace extension (set with diamonds and rubies): rhinoceros head (assay mark of 'Recense' in France), 750, maker's mark (Péry & Fils).
On the finishing element of the necklace (set with rubies)): 750, 750, maker's mark (Péry & Fils).
On the removable bracelet clasp: 750, 750, maker's mark (Péry & Fils).
- Rubies: approximate total ruby weight of the main body of the jewel: 12.00-14.80 carats. Approximate total ruby weight of the necklace extension: 2.90-3.50 carats. Approximate total ruby weight of the finishing element of the necklace: 0.60-0.70 carats. Approximate total ruby weight of the pompon: 1.30-1.60 carats. With typical inclusions, a few surface-reaching and chips at the junction of the table's facets and at the girdle.
- Diamonds: approximate total diamond weight of the main body of the jewel: 4.00-5.00 carats. Approximate total diamond weight of the necklace extension: 0.80-0.90 carats. Approximate total diamond weight of the pompon: 0.70-0.90 carats. On average E to G color, VVS to VS clarity. A few surface-reaching and chips at the junction of the table's facets and at the girdle. Bright and lively.
- Please refer to the Conditions of Sale for further information regarding coloured stones.

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