BY L'WREN SCOTT, 'TAGASODE' COLLECTION, SPRING-SUMMER 2014

This final look for the Spring-Summer 'Tagasode' collection was intended as a version of a traditional Japanese wedding ensemble. This was the last shown collection which Scott described as 'a nod to late 16th century Japan in the Momoyama period and the art of dressing. Inspired by the haunting of my favourite ancient Tagasode screen.'
In classical love poetry the phrase Tagasode (“Whose Sleeves?”) refers to an absent woman whose beautiful robes evoke memories of their owner. Although elements of embroidery and special wisteria prints on satin were used in the collection, this particular ensemble is much more lavish and is a celebration of traditional Japanese embroidery.
The floral patterns were inspired by an antique Japanese kimono from Scott's diverse vintage archive, which remained a source of inspiration for her collections over the years. The cost of embroidery was so high that she chose as the show's sound-track 'Baby Did a Bad Thing'. Scott said, 'I’m a big fan of needlework so when you are commissioned to do a couture piece, you choose to place the embroidery of each motif where the most beautiful work will be seen.'
Wisteria and peonies were her favourite flowers and were to re-occur in many of her collections through the years. She wore this ensemble to attend the British Fashion Awards at the London Coliseum on 2 December 2013.