Breguet watches made for the Ottoman Empire are one of the great rarities among Breguet’s output and certainly among the most beautiful. This lavishly decorated gold case demonstrates the superb craftsmanship of early 19th century watchmaking and enamelling, an art in which Breguet unquestionably excelled. In fact, Abraham-Louis Breguet's most spectacular timepieces were those destined for the Ottoman Empire, captivating by their opulently enamelled and brightly coloured decoration, ostentatiously contrasting with the neo-classical, often almost understated design of his traditional watches.
The present watch is one of Breguet’s masterpieces sold to the Ottoman ambassador to Paris, Esseyd Ali Effendi. This superb gold and enamel pair-cased quarter repeater has survived in amazingly good condition, the rich enamel decoration of the cases is simply stunning and the white enamel dial features Turkish numerals and Breguet’s secret signature.
According to the Breguet Archives, watch no. 1351 was sold on 18 Fructidor an 12, during the period that the French Revolutionary calendar was in use, this converts to 5 September, 1804. The workbooks record that the present watch returned to Breguet workshops in Paris four times: in 1861, 1876, 1877 and lastly in 1959 when a Certificate was issued to the then owner.
Breguet’s first connection with Turkey was due to Prince Talleyrand who introduced him to Esseid Ali Effendi, Ottoman ambassador to Paris. Ali Effendi had arrived in Paris in 1797 and with Talleyrand’s introductions he quickly became part of Paris high society. In 1798 he became a client of Breguet and soon became one of his best customers. Breguet realized the business potential of the Ottoman market and Ali Effendi, along with the leading Istanbul watch dealer Stephanaki – to whom the present watch was sold, agreed to help Breguet gain favour with wealthy customers there. To exploit the Turkish market, Breguet needed to manufacture watches specially designed to very specific criteria supplied by Ali Effendi. Breguet complied and for the first time abandoned the neo-classical style for which he is most associated. This venture proved a success and in 1805 Ali Effendi wrote to Breguet “Your reputation in Constantinople could not be higher. All the great princes admire your work”. Watch and clock gift exchange between the Arab World and the West began in 799AD when Caliph Harun al-Rashid presented the first Holy Roman Emperor, Charlemagne, with a complicated automaton water clock. 750 years later, from 1548, the clock and watch gifts were flowing in the opposite direction - from Holy Roman Emperors to Ottoman's Sultans. The Ottomans quickly developed their own taste for watches which, on the highest level, were required to be decorated with enamels. This market first belonged to the British; George Prior, Markham Markwick, both of London, produced thousands, if not tens of thousands, watches destined for Constantinople. This lasted until Breguet took the Ottoman market by storm for himself. Breguet's timepieces became the most prized in the Ottoman Court. Consequently, they also became the favourite presents for high Turkish officials including the Sultan.
Emmanuel Breguet in his definitive work on the subject, 'Breguet, Watchmakers since 1775', writes "Breguet's wares were either sold or presented as gifts to the most important dignitaries of the Ottoman Empire" (p. 230). King of Spain, Joseph I presented a Breguet watch there in 1808, Napoleon in 1812, as well as Prince Ferdinand, the future King Ferdinand VII, and to Prince Charles, the future Charles X of France, both also in 1812, and Prince Friedrich-Wilhelm-Ludwig of Prussia in 1814.