CIRCA: 1996
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless steel
CASE SIZE: 39 mm. wide
BRACELET: Stainless steel
BRACELET SIZE: Approx. 190 mm. overall length
DIAL: Blue
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Perpetual calendar, moon phases
CALIBER: AP 2120/2800
WITH: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet
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Lot Essay

According to the Archives of Audemars Piguet, the present wristwatch was sold in 1996.

A true icon in the world of watch collecting, the Royal Oak was a disruptive force when introduced to the market nearly 50 years ago. The first luxury sports wristwatch, the model deeply changed the identity of the Audemars Piguet manufacture.

Designed by Gérald Genta, the Royal Oak became a commercial success and was later released in multiple variants. The first sports watch to feature a complication, in the 1980s the manufacture decided to launch a Royal Oak featuring a perpetual calendar.

Powered with the caliber 2120/2800, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra-thin JLC 920 calibre movement, the initial Royal Oak featuring a perpetual calendar was the reference 5554 (later renamed 25554). The following reference was the ref. 25654, with a 39 mm. diameter case of same width than the Royal Oak reference 5402. The first examples of the timepiece did not feature a leap year indication or tapissery dial but scales to the moon phase and small “Audemars Piguet Automatic” script at six o’clock.

Of particular interest, the present stainless steel example is fitted with a highly attractive blue color dial. Produced in 1996, one can notice the difference in dial layout compaired to more common examples of the reference. The dial features the celebrated “tapisserie” pattern, and interestingly omites the scale to the moon phase window. It furthermore has a large Audemars Piguet script. Following research with Audemars Piguet, it is understood that this wristwatch was manufactured at a time when Audemars Piguet were experimenting dial layouts, an experimentation which resulted in this creation.

Preserved in extremely good condition, this fine stainless steel version of the AP Quantieme Perpetuel automatic is both visually striking and highly wearable, yet at the same time a complicated and significant AP heritage timepiece. Its case shows full proportions and sharp edges, the overall appeal enhanced by the stunning, colorful blue dial. It is furthermore equipped with a steel band of best quality without any stretch.

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