Details
CIRCA: 1874
CASE MATERIAL: 18K gold
DIAMETER: 52.3 mm. diam.
DIAL: Enamel
MOVEMENT: Manual, keyless
FUNCTIONS: Time, moon phases, triple calendar, retrograde date
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Lot Essay

Although signed simply ”French, Royal Exchange, London”, this high grade and extremely attractive complicated watch with the rare and unusual feature of a retrograde date function and heavy gold case supplied by the master casemaker Alfred Stram, was almost certainly made by Joseph French who was working at the Royal Exchange at this period.

Watchmakers by the name of French had been working in or near the Royal Exchange since at least the early 19th century, including Joseph, William, and perhaps the most famous, Santiago James Moore French. They were presumably all related.

This relatively rare form of triple calendar dial layout with subsidiary months and seconds, retrograde date sector and days of the week in an aperture was popular in both England and the United States in the 1860s and 1870s. The symmetrical design is particularly pleasing to the eye and even today, the retrograde date provides a novel and intriguing spectacle.

With matte gilt three-quarter plate movement, the lateral lever escapement has a bimetallic balance with blued steel balance spring with overcoil and a diamond endstone – always a sign of quality.

The heavy 18K gold case features London hallmarks for 1874 and was made by one of the most revered casemakers of the 19th century, Alfred Stram (1816-1893). Although born in Switzerland, he spent most of his working life in London. Stram took over the business of another famous casemaker, Louis Comtesse.

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