Details
Green plique-à-jour enamel, fancy and sugarloaf-shaped opales, old and rose-cut diamonds, French import assay marks for 18K yellow gold (750‰), unsigned, circa 1900, Vever case

Size/Dimensions: 12.8 x 4.5 cm
Gross weight: 16.48 grams

Please note that the brooch is not signed Vever.
An additional gold chain of later addition

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Lot Essay

Henri Vever (1854–1942) was a third-generation French jeweler whose name became synonymous with the finest achievements of Art Nouveau jewelry. Having moved to Paris with his father and brother Paul at the age of seventeen, he entered the family firm as a partner in 1874. The brothers divided responsibilities according to their respective talents: Paul managed the commercial affairs of the business, while Henri directed its artistic production. Upon their father's retirement in 1881, they assumed full control of the firm and developed it into one of the leading jewelry houses in France.

The success of their collaboration was recognized internationally when the House of Vever received the Grand Prix at the Exposition Universelle of 1889, the first of three such distinctions awarded to the firm. Drawing inspiration from both naturalistic subjects—such as flowers and foliage—and classical decorative motifs, the Vever brothers cultivated a distinctive artistic language. They were also committed to technical innovation, particularly in the field of enamelling. By the turn of the twentieth century, the House of Vever stood alongside Lalique among the foremost creators of Art Nouveau jewelry. Unlike some of their more avant-garde contemporaries, however, Vever's designs remained comparatively restrained, emphasizing precious gemstones set in exquisitely crafted mountings.

In 1907, the firm relocated from 19 to 14 Rue de la Paix in Paris and introduced a new collection of platinum-mounted jewelry, exploiting the design possibilities offered by the material. Henri Vever retired in 1921, leaving the management of the business to his nephews, André and Pierre Vever, who continued to operate the firm until 1960.

Beyond his accomplishments as a jeweler, Henri Vever achieved distinction as a historian, critic, and author. His monumental study, La Bijouterie Française au XIXe Siècle, remains an indispensable reference for the study of nineteenth-century French jewelry and continues to be regarded as one of the most important works in the field.

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