Details
Designed as a yellow orchid species, yellow, brown and cream enamel, rose-cut diamonds, yellow gold, circa 1890, signed Tiffany & Co., numbered, areas of loss to yellow and brown enamel

Size/Dimensions: 4.5 x 2.2 cm (134 x 78 in)
Gross Weight: 6.6 grams
Provenance
Christie's, New York, 10 December 2024, Sale 23071, Lot 40
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Lot Essay

Naturalism made a profound impact during the Victorian era, influencing not only literature and art but also jewelry, which often featured lifelike depictions of plants and flowers. By the late 19th century, "Orchidelirium" or "orchid fever" had spread from Europe to America. Collecting orchids became an expensive hobby, prized by the wealthy not only for their rarity and beauty but also as a symbol of status. Paulding Farnham, an American designer, captured the exquisite elegance and fragility of orchids, transforming them into captivating pieces that Tiffany & Co. showcased at the 1889 Paris Exposition Universelle.

Farnham’s designs reflected his mastery of naturalism. In preparation for the Exposition, Tiffany & Co. sourced orchid specimens from countries such as India, Mexico, and the Philippines to serve as models for their jeweled creations. The Paris Exposition marked not only the centennial of the French Revolution and the debut of the Eiffel Tower but also a moment for designers to present their most innovative and artistic work.

Tiffany & Co. mesmerized the public with Farnham’s meticulously crafted orchid brooches, which appeared to float delicately above their display cases on fine wires. An article in the *Syracuse Herald* remarked, "Only actual touch could convince the observer that they were the work of man’s hands." Inspired by the public's enthusiastic response, Tiffany & Co. expanded their collection, adding fifteen more varieties to the original twenty-four, each adorned with enamel and gemstones.

Farnham’s orchids earned Tiffany & Co. the gold medal for jewelry at the Exposition, a prestigious honor that not only was praised by the American public, but also marked the first recognition of Tiffany & Co. as an international competitor by the French.

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