Developed over a period of four years, the Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 represents one of the manufacture’s most technically ambitious creations and a remarkable expression of its longstanding partnership with Bugatti, established in 2004. Conceived alongside the Bugatti Chiron, the watch translates the engineering philosophy of the celebrated supercar into an extraordinary mechanical architecture, resulting in what Parmigiani Fleurier aptly described as an ‘engine block on the wrist’.

At the heart of the watch is the patented, manually wound calibre PF390, constructed as a horizontal cylinder in a configuration radically different from that of a conventional wristwatch. Two coaxial barrels mounted in series provide an impressive 80-hour power reserve, while the regulating organ takes the form of a 60-second flying tourbillon operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour. Like an automotive engine, the entire modular movement can even be removed from its housing as a single unit for servicing or modification.

The unusual cylindrical architecture required Parmigiani Fleurier to develop a series of innovative mechanical solutions. Three planetary gear trains transmit energy through the calibre, incorporating miniature ball bearings measuring only 1.28 mm in diameter and requiring no lubrication. At the end of the transmission chain, a variable-inertia balance with Breguet overcoil regulates the flying tourbillon, while a torque limiter protects the movement against excessive force during winding.

Perhaps most remarkable is the connection between the horizontal ‘engine’ and the perpendicularly positioned time display. A specially developed worm screw transfers energy through a 90-degree angle from the cylindrical movement to the dial, an ingenious construction conceived specifically for the Type 390. The movement itself comprises 302 components arranged across seven layers, while a sapphire tube surrounding the calibre provides an equally unconventional indication of the remaining power reserve.

The automotive inspiration extends throughout the construction and finishing. The two barrels are individually engraved with the signature of legendary racing driver Louis Chiron and the words ‘le vieux renard’, his celebrated nickname. Large sapphire openings reveal the movement and flying tourbillon, while the case itself can pivot by 12 degrees around its axis to improve ergonomics on the wrist. Produced in highly exclusive editions of only 10 pieces, the Bugatti Type 390 stands as a fascinating synthesis of automotive engineering and haute horlogerie, and one of the most technically distinctive creations to emerge from the collaboration between Parmigiani Fleurier and Bugatti.